High fashion, long known for its exclusivity and elite status, has undergone a significant evolution over the last few decades. Traditionally, high fashion, or haute couture, was associated with luxury, refinement, and an almost untouchable level of craftsmanship. Reserved for the wealthy, influential, and powerful, it was an exclusive domain where only a select few could participate. However, with the rise of avant-garde designers like Rei Kawakubo and her fashion house Comme Des Garçons, high fashion has been redefined, democratized, and opened up in ways that challenge the very essence of exclusivity. Kawakubo, in particular, has reshaped fashion, merging high fashion with more conceptual and intellectual ideas while also influencing streetwear—a domain previously distant from the world of couture.
In this article, we will explore the historical development of high fashion’s exclusivity, the impact of Comme Des Garçons in reshaping that narrative, and how the fashion world has moved toward a more inclusive but still luxurious future. commedesgarcons.us.com Through this lens, we’ll examine how Comme Des Garçons has bridged the gap between the elite world of high fashion and the streets, challenging traditional notions of who fashion is for and what it can represent.
1. Historical Origins of Exclusivity in High Fashion
The origins of high fashion’s exclusivity can be traced back to the 19th century when Charles Frederick Worth, considered the father of haute couture, opened his first fashion house in Paris. Paris became the epicenter of haute couture, and the creations of houses like Dior, Chanel, and Givenchy came to define the landscape of luxury fashion. These designers catered to the aristocracy and the wealthy elite, creating one-of-a-kind, custom-fitted garments that showcased superior craftsmanship and design.
The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, established in 1868, further codified the exclusivity of high fashion. Membership in this prestigious organization was highly restricted, and only a few select designers were granted the right to use the term “haute couture.” These designers followed strict rules regarding the number of pieces produced, the number of fittings, and the quality of materials used. Couture shows were private, attended by royalty, celebrities, and the rich—far removed from the mass consumer. High fashion, at its core, was a symbol of status and a way to signify one’s place in society.
2. The Rise of Modern Luxury: Post-War Influence
Following World War II, high fashion maintained its status as a luxury reserved for the wealthy elite, but the world of fashion was slowly starting to change. Designers like Christian Dior introduced collections like the “New Look”, which re-established Paris as the center of fashion but also appealed to a broader audience outside Europe’s traditional elite. High fashion remained exclusive but began experimenting with reaching a more international market, particularly in places like America.
Even so, couture remained a world apart, dominated by aristocrats and high-society figures. Fashion was still a spectacle of wealth, where the most sought-after pieces were tailor-made, and the design process was long and labor-intensive. It was a world inaccessible to the average person.
3. The Changing Nature of Exclusivity in the 1960s and 1970s
The 1960s and 1970s were marked by cultural shifts that began to challenge the notion of exclusivity in high fashion. The rise of youth culture, countercultural movements, and the growing influence of ready-to-wear (prêt-à-porter) lines introduced the idea that fashion could be more accessible. Designers like Yves Saint Laurent broke new ground by offering ready-to-wear collections that still embodied luxury but were more accessible to a wider audience. However, the allure of couture remained, and high fashion still represented the pinnacle of elegance and wealth.
It was during this time that designers like Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne began experimenting with futuristic designs and materials, questioning the very notion of what fashion could be. Yet, the concept of exclusivity remained intact—fashion was still viewed as a reflection of social class and privilege.
4. Enter Rei Kawakubo: Breaking Boundaries
In 1969, Rei Kawakubo founded Comme Des Garçons in Tokyo, Japan, and almost immediately began to break away from the traditional confines of high fashion. Unlike the established houses in Paris, Kawakubo rejected the notion that fashion had to conform to conventional standards of beauty or status. She introduced a more conceptual, deconstructed approach to design that emphasized imperfection, asymmetry, and minimalism. Her early collections were dark, raw, and androgynous, often challenging the very idea of what fashion should be.
In 1981, Kawakubo took Comme Des Garçons to Paris, debuting her first collection at Paris Fashion Week. The response was polarizing , with critics and fashion insiders divided over her radical departure from tradition. While some viewed her work as shocking and ugly, https://commedesgarcons.us.com/play-hoodie/
others saw it as revolutionary. By defying the norms of haute couture and creating pieces that were more akin to wearable art, Kawakubo was actively challenging the exclusive world of fashion. Her designs were no longer about making the wearer look beautiful in a traditional sense—they were about expressing an idea, often one that subverted societal expectations.
5. The Democratization of High Fashion Through Concept
What set Comme Des Garçons apart from the traditional high fashion houses was Kawakubo’s philosophy that fashion could be a form of intellectual exploration, not just a symbol of wealth. She democratized fashion by making it about the idea rather than the person wearing it. Her deconstructed garments, often featuring unfinished hems, distorted shapes, and irregular cuts, were not intended to enhance the wearer’s appearance in a conventional sense. Instead, they forced people to engage with the concept behind the design.
In this way, Kawakubo blurred the lines between high fashion and art, making her work accessible to anyone with an appreciation for creativity, regardless of social status. While her pieces were still high-priced and carried the label of exclusivity, the idea behind her fashion was universal.
6. The Intersection of High Fashion and Streetwear
Perhaps one of Kawakubo’s most significant contributions to the evolution of exclusivity in fashion is her role in merging high fashion with streetwear. The Comme Des Garçons collaborations with brands like Nike and Supreme marked a turning point in the fashion world, where the elite status of high fashion was brought into conversation with the accessible, youth-driven culture of streetwear. Kawakubo’s collaboration with Nike in 2008, for example, produced a line of sneakers that blended high fashion aesthetics with street functionality, blurring the line between luxury and casual wear.
This crossover between high fashion and street culture democratized luxury in a way that was previously unheard of. By collaborating with streetwear brands, Kawakubo allowed her avant-garde designs to reach a broader audience, one that wasn’t confined to the wealthy elite. This shift reflected a broader trend in fashion, where the idea of exclusivity was being challenged by the inclusion of street culture and the celebration of youth rebellion.
7. Redefining Luxury and Status
Comme Des Garçons’ impact on high fashion extends beyond just its designs—it has redefined what luxury means in the modern world. In the past, luxury was defined by opulence, status, and the use of rare materials. However, Kawakubo’s work shows that luxury can also be about intellectual engagement, creativity, and authenticity. Her designs emphasize conceptual depth over surface-level beauty, making them appealing to those who value artistry and innovation over status symbols.
Kawakubo’s approach to fashion has shifted the conversation from wealth as the primary marker of exclusivity to one where creativity and individual expression are valued more. In today’s fashion landscape, owning a Comme Des Garçons piece is not just about wealth—it’s about being part of a cultural movement that appreciates the avant-garde.
8. The Continuing Evolution of Exclusivity in Fashion
As high fashion continues to evolve in the 21st century, the boundaries between exclusivity and accessibility are becoming increasingly blurred. Comme Des Garçons has played a crucial role in this evolution by showing that high fashion can exist outside of the traditional confines of wealth and social class. Today, designers like Virgil Abloh, Demna Gvasalia, and Kim Jones are continuing this trend by blending luxury with streetwear and collaborating with global brands to reach new audiences.
While haute couture remains a symbol of exclusivity, its role in the fashion world has changed. In many ways, the avant-garde and conceptual designers have become the new arbiters of exclusivity, with their designs appealing to a select group of individuals who value creativity and individualism over mere status.
Conclusion
The evolution of high fashion’s exclusivity has been a dynamic process, one that has seen shifts from opulence and status to intellectual engagement and artistic expression. Comme Des Garçons, under the direction of Rei Kawakubo, has been at the forefront of this transformation, redefining what it means to be exclusive in the world of fashion. By challenging traditional notions of beauty, status, and luxury, Kawakubo has opened the doors of high fashion to a broader audience while still maintaining its avant-garde edge.
Through her collaborations, conceptual designs, and commitment to breaking down barriers, Kawakubo has shown that
